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Let me start off by saying that John Galliano x Christian Dior is untouchable. I don’t think there will ever be a collection I won’t find myself in love with. Christian Dior plays in its own league and, for me, is the definition of high fashion, couture & French elegance. For Spring 2010 Galliano sticked to the lingerie theme he first introduced us to in his Fall 2009 couture show where models were pantless and everything was presented with garters and semi-sheer knickers.

What I also really liked were the film noir references. Galliano said he designed this collection with actress Lauren Bacall in mind. Hourglass silhouettes, lamé dresses, short trenchcoats, transparent chiffon gowns – all in all a solid, romantic & feminine collection with the usual, flawless quality you’ve come to expect of Dior and its mastermind Monsieur Galliano. Already looking forward to Spring 2010 Couture.

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Versace’s Spring 2010 collection was a fashion interpretation of Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland as Donatella said she’d been inspired by the fantasyland in the film. We had geometric prints dipped in pastel candy colors, paired with Versace’s quintessential slinky, sexy silhouettes and completed with giga high platforms which – even by stiletto lover standards – should be quite a challenge to walk in.

After being disappointed by the Fall 2009 collection I am so happy to see Donatella return to her glory days. Gotta love her for designing clothes that make you want to hit the gym, right?

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At first I was a little disappointed with Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s Spring 2010 collection for Rodarte because the first shown pieces were way too messy and grungy for my liking and I couldn’t shake the thought of picturing homeless people in these clothes – an association I really wasn’t feeling good with.

But halfway through the show, the interesting pieces started to pour in and I was astounded at how much I’ve gone through love and hate with the whole collection. My personal favorites were the black pieces which were shown in the last third of the show. Typical Rodarte with a new twist! The collection’s leitmotif was “scarred and still beautiful” and I think this pretty much sums it up. The Rodarte sisters have once more done a great job – at least for half of the collection. What do you think of it? You can view the whole collection here.

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3.1 Phillip Lim Resort 2010

I am absolutely in love with 3.1 Phillip Lim’s Resort 2010 collection. Of course there were a few items being not to my taste (like the patchwork denim or the tacky floral prints), but overall I was really smitten with his soft and feminine collection.

What I especially loved were the lace items (blouses, skirts & dresses) as well as the draped chiffon skirts, the rolled hem shorts and high-waisted belted pants.

Lim stuck to a rather neutral color palette, no bold colors like red or yellow. Instead he used a lot of nudes and beiges, greys and an occasional splash of black in between.

John Galliano’s Fall 2009 show was everything you’d expect from him. Magical, bold, daring and extravagant. Every season he comes up with a completely different collection; his inspiration seems to come from an inexhaustible source. His newest masterpiece was all about Russian folklore. A fluorescent bubble snowstorm was raving on the runway which looked more like a portal to another magical world.

The show started with broad-hipped, full-skirted baboushka coats and extreme exaggerated hips followed by traditional folklore attire which were adorned with tons of ornaments and embellishments. Galliano’s passion for detail was clearly visible in the lavishly crafted headdresses, belts and sky high laced platform pompom boots. The color palette was a bit muted for Galliano. A lot of greys, blacks and browns were used, but every now and then a stroke of blue or orange would brighten up the runway.

Towards the end of the show there was an explosion of sheer floor-length dresses which seemed more like Galliano’s traditional territory that were reminiscent of Russian ice princesses or spooky ghost brides.

Galliano’s Fall 2009 collection was not meant for the masses and I am so curious to see if, apart from the occasional high fashion editorial, any of the pieces will find their way onto the streets or on the red carpet.

Baboushka Coats

Folklore Costumes

Siberian Ice Princesses